Seriously: The Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian

Split, at least the centre of it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The ruins of Diocletian's Palace, built between the late 3rd and the early 4th centuries A.D., can be found throughout the city. The cathedral was built in the Middle Ages, reusing materials from the ancient mausoleum. Twelfth- and 13th-century Romanesque churches, medieval fortifications, 15th-century Gothic palaces and other palaces in Renaissance and Baroque style make up the rest of the protected area.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia, with a population over 200,000.  Though the big attraction here, the amazing Diocletian's Palace, is the center of the Old City, Split does not feel like a museum piece. The Old City does offer the narrow winding streets and stately squares that make European cities so appealing.  But modern Split, a tourist, shipping and transportation center, boasts plenty of shops and excellent restaurants. It's a good place to sample the fresh seafood, mussels and the good red wine that are regional specialties.  Split is home to a university of 30,000, and half the city's population is in its 20s.

This photo of Split is from the UNESCO site

The following are notes I received from a friend.  Rather than rewrite them, I simply copied them to provide more information about the old town and its historical importance.

Diocletian's Palace is unique in the world, a grand Roman monument where people still live. Shops, hotels, and cafes co-exist happily with the historic buildings and fragments of columns and arches within the thick walls of this 1,700-year-old palace.

The word "palace" doesn't adequately describe the walled enclave built as a retirement retreat by Diocletian, the Croatian-born last pagan emperor of Rome.  It covers nearly 10 acres and includes the emperor's apartments, villas, several temples, four gates, 16 towers and a military encampment, plus housing for a retinue of soldiers and servants.  It took 20,000 slaves 10 years to build.  The big open central square of the palace called Peristil.  The following are photos I took around some of the Old Town yesterday.

The Peristil

Diocletian died in 316, 11 years after his palace was completed, and other Roman emperors followed him, but things changed in 612 when 60,000 refugees from the nearby town of Solona fled to live within the walls, seeking refuge from Slav invaders.  Over the years, under successive rulers, the palace evolved into a city but important historic sights remain.  The Temple of Jupiter, later converted by Christians into the Baptistry of St. Peter, contains a sculpted figure of St. Peter by Croatia's great sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic.  The elaborate domed Cathedral of St. Domnius, built as Diocletian's mausoleum, was converted to a church in the 7th century and a tall bell tower was added in the 17th century.  The vast vestibule that served as an entry to the emperor's apartments remains, and is often home to singers or guitar concerts.  The cellar, the best preserved part of the complex, is also important to visit as it shows the outline of the original layout, which has been greatly altered over the years.  It also clearly demonstrates the skill of the stone masons who built walls that are still strong today.

Riva, the city's famous promenade beside the sea, is fresh from a $12 million renovation completed in 2007.  A competition was held to find a design to give a modern look without spoiling the traditional feel of the Riva. Outdoor cafes line the inside edge of the walkway.  Clever new awnings can tilt to provide shade according to the angle of the sun, or move upright when not needed, forming a contemporary accent to the walk. The Riva is busy all day but most popular at night when everyone in town seems to come out to see and be seen.  On the water, ferries are in constant motion, carrying passengers to and from the resort islands that line the Dalmatian coast.  (We had both breakfast and lunch on Riva on Monday).

 

Lunch on Riva yesterday and my yummy Strawberry Bellini

Marmontova Street is a pedestrians-only byway intersecting the western end of the Riva where you'll find the high-end shops of Split, including some familiar international labels like Tommy Hilfiger and Benetton.  Along the way you'll pass the busy Fish Market with buyers haggling over prices for the catches of the day. At the end of the street is the Trg (Square) Gaje Bulata where you can't miss the handsome Croatian National Theatre, painted a bright yellow.

Green Market is a big, lively open-air market at the east end of Diocletian's Palace.  Locals come here every day to shop for clothing and fresh fruits and vegetables.  Plenty of souvenirs are for sale here as well.  Here are my photos from our visit to the Green Market yesterday.

 

City Squares: Through the west gate of the palace is Narodni Trg, or "People's square", the old city's main square.  It was once known as "the square of the ladies," where wealthy daughters promenaded hoping to attract an eligible beau.  One of the finest buildings on the square is the former city hall, a 1906 art nouveau building in Venetian style.  Toward the Riva is Brace Radic Trg, the Fruit Square, a smaller medieval square anchored by a sculpture of the Croatian author Marko Maruli by Ivan Mestrovic.

 

Clearly, we have lots more to explore and see!